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The name of Rione Ponte (bridge in Italian) comes from Ponte Sant’ Angelo. This bridge belonged to Rione Ponte until Pope Sixtus V annexed it to the rione Borgo. Its logo is obviously a bridge.
Before Pope Sixtus V, the Rione Ponte also included an area on the other side of the river Tiber, which was then separated from it to create the Rione Borgo. During the sixteenth century Ponte was very important, especially for its road network; that is why palaces of noble and wealthy trader families were built according to the projects of famous artists. These palaces embellished considerably the rione, which soon become famous.
A very common event in the rione was to see a small procession led by a person dressed in black carrying a crucifix on his shoulder and with a veil on his face. On a wagon there was a chained condemned man kissing continuously another image of Jesus. The destination of the procession was the square of Ponte Sant’Angelo where there were gallows to hang the condemned man.
Although Ponte was quite a rich and flourishing area, it was also the most affected by the frequent flooding of the Tiber. Its look changed completely after Rome became the capital city in 1870. The embankments of the river were built to stop the floodings and new bridges were made to connect the Vatican City to the rest of Rome. All the narrow streets leading to the bank of the river have now disappeared to make space to the Lungotevere, the wide street running along the river. Yet, it is still possible to see the typical look of the rione in the inner parts of the area.
The rione has always been inhabited since ancient times. The first dwellings date back to the second century B.C., later on more important public buildings, such as the Stadium of Domitian, were built, and a road network was developed. The famous “Via Recta”, one of the main streets of ancient Rome, is today three streets together: Via delle Coppelle, Via Sant’Agostino and Via dei Coronari. In the Middle Ages, dwellings and people increased considerably due to the proximity to the Vatican City. Eventually, at the beginning of the 15th century, houses, churches and buildings multiplied, and the rione was the only area within the Aurelian walls where there were more buildings than open spaces. In 1425, the papal bull issued by Martin V gave start to a long-lasting urban renewal through different plans and projects, and involving Sixtus IV, Julius II (Via Giulia), and Paul III (Via Paola). Corso Vittorio divided the rione Parione into two areas, with Campo de’ Fiori, full of inns and taverns, on one side, and Piazza Navona, full of theatres and shops of engravers and printers, on the other side. Parione is still one of the most lively rioni of the city.
The rione Ponte is rich in historical buildings and popular spots belonging to the “old Rome”. All streets are worthy of a walk, starting from Via Giulia with its sequence of buildings and churches marked by the architect Bramante in the 16th century; a particular remark goes to the church of San Eligio degli Orefici, initially designed by Raphael. Every morning, a lively open-air market is held in Campo de’ Fiori, the heart of the rione. Walking past Corso Vittorio, there is one of the most spectacular squares of Rome, Piazza Navona, a Baroque urban work of art. The Four Rivers Fountain by Bernini (1651) dominates the square. Not far from Piazza Navona, there is another square, Santa Maria della Pace, with the homonymous church in the Baroque style restored by Pietro da Cortona (1656-1657).
The name Navova comes from “agones”, that are the games held in the Stadium of Domitian, on which site the famous square is built. The Stadium measured 275 meters in length, 106 meters in width and could hold 30,000 people. Before the Stadium was built, Caesar Augustus used the area for the Olympic Games, while Nero built there an arena for his own games celebrated every 5 years. During the 13th century, houses and towers started to appear and then, during the Renaissance, churches and palaces. In the 15th century, the city market was transferred to Piazza Navona from Campidoglio and then to Campo de’ Fiori. In summer, the square used to be flooded to allow the ships of princes and prelates to parade.
From Sant’Angelo’s bridge, take Via del Banco di Santo Spirito and you will find the homonymous sixteenth-century palace; then turn left in Via dei Banchi Nuovi, the ancient “Via Papalis”, which becomes Via del Governo Vecchio, and you’ll be in Piazza Pasquino, where there is the most famous talking statue on which roman people post their messages, most of them political satires and so called “pasquinades”.
Via di Pasquino takes you to Piazza Navona. Stop also to admire the church of Sant’Agnese in Agone. It dates back to the 8th century, but was rebuilt in the sixteenth century by Girolamo and Carlo Rainaldi, and also by Francesco Borromini, who completed the façade. Now walk along Corso Vittorio to Piazza della Chiesa Nuova, go across the square, go down along Via Cartari and then turn left in Via del Pellegrino: here it is worth noticing the courtyards of the houses, some of the most charming spots of the “old Rome”.